Fashion Arts Commissions for 2017/18
The Fashion Arts Commissions for 2017/18 partnered designers from the renowned NEWGEN scheme of the British Fashion Council with alumni from the Royal Academy Schools. Each artist and designer partner is awarded a bursary to create a work of art that explores their respective creative landscapes and how they collide. Christies partnered with the scheme by offering venue support to showcase the works and host the correlating events. All money raised from the event goes back into the scheme in order to offer the bursaries for the following year.
Click here to see the artworks, and read the participants' biographies below.
Appau Jnr Boakye-Yiadom
Appau Jnr Boakye-Yiadom examines and re-appropriates collective moments and memories of the cultural familiar. Continually outlining movement, sound, and visuals into a combined narrative. Associating this with a shared relationship in which experiential knowledge is passed on within cultural practices. Working with archive materials that include video footage, images, text and recorded sound, alongside ready-made objects. Creating installations with multi-layered references. Exploiting performative possibilities of cultural commodities, everyday objects, film, music and images. A continual vested interest in dissecting monoculture and extending a refractive practice.
Through a multi-media artistic practice Boakye-Yiadom creates hybrid performances where objects and materials are generated – both archival and self-produced – and kinetically combined to form languages of connectivity and multiplicity. In effect the work has often taken a presentational form of an installation where an instigated performance takes place. His work has increasingly incorporated a deep-rooted interest in exploring and evoking physical sensory responses.
Boakye-Yiadom lives and works in London, received a Post Graduate Diploma from Royal Academy Schools, 2008 and a BA (Hons) in Fine Art; Painting from Winchester School of Art, 2005.
Carla Busuttil explores and addresses notions of power in a digital age, and she works across mediums; primarily paint, but also film, installation, digital media and sculpture. By platforming and interrogating the parallel themes of growing economic inequality and information abundance, much of Busuttil’s recent work looks at tendencies toward increased isolation and fortification, based on economic and technological strata.
Busuttil completed a Postgraduate Diploma at the Royal Academy Schools, London (2005-2008) following on from receiving a BA Fine Arts (Hons.) at the University of Witwatersrand, Johannesburg. Her work was featured in Newspeak: British Art Now, at the Saatchi Gallery and she has exhibited in museums and galleries locally and internationally. Busuttil's work has also been included in publications such as ‘100 Painters of Tomorrow’ (Thames and Hudson) and ‘Painting Now’ (Thames and Hudson).
Julie Born Schwartz
Julie Born Schwartz studied at Goldsmiths and Royal Academy Schools in London. She is represented by Union Pacific in London.
Beginning with periods of extensive research and thorough engagement with a social context or a particular situation or material, Born Schwartz’s practice is focused on presenting stylized narratives. Evolving usually over long periods of time or as a specific response to an experience or place they find their form in installations employing video, photography and sculpture.
Recent exhibitions and screenings at: Schirn Kunsthalle, Frankfurt; Royal Academy of Arts London; Socle du Monde Biennale 2017, Herning; Union Pacific Gallery, London; Museum of Religious Art, Lemvig; Photographic Center, Copenhagen; The Sunday Painter, London.
British born, London based, Liam Hodges has interest in ‘an expressive, polysyllabic masculinity'. His brand has been labeled a luxury brand for the mad and bad ones who are desirous of everything and those who foresake conformity everyday not just at the weekend. Signature Liam Hodges means wide silhouettes, patch working, hard wearing workwear and sportswear; influences drawn from modern male subcultures, English paganism, Hip-Hop skatewear, UK streetwear and Post-Punk.
Liam graduated from London's Royal College of Art in 2013 after studying menswear under the tutorage of stylist Simon Foxton. In 2014 Liam debuted a collection for Fashion East before gaining catwalk sponsorship under the prestigious Topman backed MAN show for three seasons. Spring/Summer 18 will see Liam's fourth standalone show thanks to NEWGEN sponsorship.
Liam Hodges has won the support of titles including: Another Man, Dazed & Confused, i-D, Interview, VMAN, GQ Style, Vogue Japan, WGSN, Vogue Italia, Hypebeast, Complex, SHOWstudio, Novembre, The Guardian and Sang Bleu and his designs have been worn by the likes of Drake, P.Diddy, FKA Twigs, Danny Brown and Big Sean.
Marco Palmieri is an artist who lives and works in Rome. Over the past years, Palmieri has worked with imagery of leisurely and classical heritage – primarily in the production of paintings, but also objects such as wallpaper, ceramics, and tailored clothing.
The protagonists in the paintings are typically distracted, bored, pensive, or melancholic. Their mood is one of emptiness and loss – lost not only in thought, but also lost in time. Like a scent that lingers long after its wearer has departed, the figures, the poses, and the scenes, each carry the trace of other artists and historical periods, from Matisse to the Etruscan era.
The notion of ‘historical androgyny’ – the idea that an artwork can contain the essence of various eras at once – was central to Orlando, the solo show presented by the artist in Los Angeles in 2015, which was inspired by Virginia Woolf’s eponymous novel. Woolf guides the reader through Orlando’s many flights through gender and time with the constancy and character of her authorial voice. It is a voice which, while inflected by the changes to her protagonist and to the era in which the story is set, always belongs to a distinct and identifiable character. Similarly, what ties together the imagery in Palmieri’s works is the character of the line itself, which allows Palmieri move in and out of histories, genders, characters and motifs, while retaining a recognizable profile; a personal handwriting that leaves its signature in every piece.
Solo exhibitions include: Nicodim Gallery, Los Angeles – Frutta Gallery, Rome – Hobbs McLaughlin, London. He took part in group exhibitions at Garbo’s, Rome – Emalin, Dunmore – T293, Rome – Depart Foundation, Miami – Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Rome – Nicodim Gallery, Los Angeles – CURA. Basement, Rome – Kinman Gallery, London – Ana Cristea Gallery, New York – The Approach, London – ICA, London, Peles Empire, London.
He is part of the curatorial collective group Garbo’s, an itinerant project space that has organized a number of events, including the PDF Summer Read, the two-person exhibition Full For It: Tomaso De Luca & Catherine Parsonage, Rome, and the screening event Paris is Burning, Rome.
Together with the writer Rosanna McLaughlin, he curated the group show Congratulations on your Ugly Handwriting at CURA. Basement, Rome.
Carvell studied at both Chelsea School of Art and Goldsmiths College before completing a Postgraduate Diploma at the Royal Academy Schools.
Her work is held in collections worldwide and she has exhibited internationally including a residency in New York City in 2012. Exploring the line between Art and Fashion, she started her clothing range NIKWEAR in 2013. She has also won many awards for her distinctive work which she terms as 'Naff Grafix'.
German born womenswear designer Paula Knorr lives and works in London. She graduated from Royal College of Art in 2015 and won the ITS Fashion Award in Trieste in the same year.
Afterwards, she worked as a freelance designer for Peter Pilotto and on different projects with well-known fashion stylists to capitalise on her strength in creating innovative draping and cutting techniques.
In late 2015 she found her own fashion label and being awarded NEWGEN by the British Fashion Council, one of the most an internationally recognised talent identification schemes, she presents her collections on schedule at London Fashion Week. Her feminine designs are manufactured in Germany using exceptional material from Italian and French mills.
Knorr has a growing reputation as one of London's most exciting and talented designers, worn by the likes of BJÖRK, Solange and Katy Perry and has been featured in Elle, New York Times, T magazine, I-D and Heroin Magazine amongst others.
Her spring/summer 2018 collection is stocked with eight selected retailers worldwide, for example Galeries Lafayette and Opening Ceremony.
Irish designer Richard Malone, 26, is fast becoming London's go-to designer for resourcefulness with no shortage of rebellion. In 2017 alone, he presented a catwalk show that was the runaway success of London Fashion Week, was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize, and was commissioned by the New York's Museum of Modern Art to create a custom piece for its first fashion exhibition in seventy years.
The lifeblood of this young label is Malone's detailed, sensitive observation of femininity. The designer cares deeply about women - about their minds, their rights, and as a result about dressing them in clothes which are at once transformative yet entirely functional. The intention is to enhance everything which makes them compelling.
Malone graduated from Central Saint Martins BA Fashion Womenswear in 2014, where he was awarded the prestigious LVMH Grand Prix scholarship. His graduate collection opened the year's BA Fashion press show and was awarded the Deutsche Bank Award for Fashion, previously won by Christopher Kane.
Soon after graduating Malone launched his eponymous line with an independent presentation for Autumn Winter 15. Richard was then scouted by Lulu Kennedy's Fashion East - who he presented his Spring Summer 16 collection with. Richard stayed with Fashion East for a further two seasons before moving on to present his Autumn Winter 17 and Spring Summer 18 collections as part of the NEWGEN scheme with the BFC.
Malone's unique style takes great inspiration from sculpture. Nearly all of his research is conducted primarily by engaging in his surroundings, taking much of his inspiration from Ireland's rebellious working class teens. In a knowingly tawdry colour palette of ‘supermarket' blue, green and yellow – the brazen colours he is endlessly enamoured by – Malone frequently explores what he designs as ‘weird contrasts.'
As noted by Olivia Singer for British Vogue, ‘One of Malone's remarkable talents in his ability to translate inspiration found in his hometown of Wexford, Ireland - this season, the diverse mix of women he would see at the local pub - and translate them into elegantly-constructed garments that are simultaneously sculptural and easy to wear.'
Whilst progressive, the collections are deeply rooted in reality - Malone works with a number of private clients (many are art industry executives or gallerists) on one-off commissions, and as such spends much of his time developing a deep understanding of what his audience really want to wear.
Malone is an advocate for sustainable fashion. Sourcing the yarns for his collections from the Himalayas, he works with a community of female artisans in Tamil Nadu, Southern India, to hand-weave the fabrics and dye them naturally. Malone is strongly against the mass production involved in the fashion industry.
London born designer Sadie Williams creates modern textile driven fashion, juxtaposing modernity with craft.
Her sensibility for combining a sporty tomboyish with grown-up femininity has been a signature since graduating with Distinction from the CSM MA Fashion course in 2013. She went on to become a Selfridges ‘Bright Young Thing' and was included in ‘Designs of The Year Exhibition 2014' at The Design Museum.
She has worked for designers including Marc By Marc Jacobs, JW Anderson and Katie Hillier and many stylists over the years. Since designing an incredibly successful collection for & Other Stories she has undertaken numerous special projects and commissions for Vogue Festival, Carhartt WIP, Manchester Art Gallery, Google & Squarespace. After being awarded a place on the ‘Swarovski collective 2017' she has incorporated crystals into her work to playful and original effect. 2018 sees a forthcoming collaboration with the Royal Academy and Christies Auction House.
Since autumn/winter 2015 she has received NEWGEN sponsorship to support her own label, and Forbes Magazine listed her as one of Europe's "30 Under 30" for The Arts. She now presents on schedule at London Fashion Week and showrooms at Paris Fashion Week. She continues to create graphic and tactile work that capitalises on her strengths in print & textile innovation, bringing shimmer and sparkle to her collections through her signature use of metallic.
A-COLD-WALL* exists within a conceptual space bordered by atypical contemporary design, citified cultural influence and audio/visual implementation. A sartorial response to London street culture and the zeitgeist of Britain's working class, Samuel Ross launched A-Cold-Wall* in the fall of 2015 to reflect hegemonic disparities and youth expression in contemporary fashion.
A theme of stark urbanity is woven into the DNA of A-COLD-WALL* and recent creative impulses have yielded an array of collections symbolic of Ross' commentary on his surroundings: the parallels between meticulous school day processes and the mundanity of the nine to five; disunity in Britain compounded by recent political upheavals; and the disenfranchised working class.
Samuel Ross' distinctly multidisciplinary vision is present in handcrafted graphic garments and silhouettes untethered by the need for symmetry. Each A-COLD-WALL* release blurs the line between materials and fabrics - fashion and the arts – and continues its conceptual trajectory.