Holly Laidler is a London-based fashion designer originally from Cheltenham, known for her sharp, conceptual womenswear. A graduate of the University of Westminster’s BA Fashion Design program, Laidler’s work reflects an intellectual, narrative-driven approach to design. Her graduate collection, Hotsy Totsy, offers a compelling exploration of femininity, satire, and historical reference. At the core of Hotsy Totsy is a fictional persona, Laidler’s interpretation of a 1920s term used to describe someone “ostentatiously fashionable.” This character becomes a vessel through which Laidler interrogates style, gender, and authority. “She’s a woman of the past, dressed for the future—immaculate, in control, and magnetic without trying,” Laidler explains. The garments embody this ethos through a blend of sensuality and structural command, realized in highly tailored silhouettes. The collection draws visual and conceptual influence from two key historical aesthetics: the crisp functionality of 1940s military uniforms (specifically the MA-1 bomber and flight suit), and the decadent draping of 1930s eveningwear. By combining these opposites, Laidler presents a satirical take on vintage glamour, refracted through a modern, feminist lens. The palette—muted greys, taupes, and greens with bold injections of artillery orange—mirrors the tension between luxury and utility. Technical sophistication is central to Laidler’s work. Trompe l’oeil effects mimic exposed mesh underskirts and undergarments, adding an element of subversive humor. Topstitching and finish details emphasize craftsmanship, while sensually wrapped silhouettes; developed through various placements in industry, offer a sense of controlled seduction. The standout piece, a twisted waistcoat dress, exemplifies Laidler’s ability to merge softness with sharpness, femininity with strength.