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Xiaoya Wang

Xiaoya Wang

Manchester, UK
UNIVERSITY/COLLEGE Winchester School of Art
Course In Plain Sight
SPECIALISMS Womenswear,Textiles,Garment Technology,Pattern Cutting,Tailoring

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k.ryan@soton.ac.uk

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Xiaoya Wang’s graduate collection, In Plain Sight, examines the female body under the disciplining force of the gaze. Working through references to 1960s-80s office wear, cinematic femininity and bodily restriction, the collection questions how women’s bodies are observed, framed, controlled and expected to perform within social and visual systems. The collection begins with familiar garments associated with work, order and everyday respectability, then subjects them to disruption. Office wear becomes a site of tension rather than neutrality: structured silhouettes, restrained surfaces and recognisable codes of professional dressing are reworked through distortion, imprint and interruption. Xiaoya uses these interventions to expose the pressures placed on the body, while also creating space for resistance and redefined feminine identity. A key strength of In Plain Sight is its relationship between concept, technical development and surface. Xiaoya brings together pattern cutting, 3D development and experimental fabrication processes to build garments that feel controlled, but not passive. The work explores restriction as both a physical and psychological condition, using construction to suggest tension, compression and visibility. At the same time, the collection resists simple readings of constraint by turning these pressures into acts of design agency. The use of 3D printing directly onto fabric is particularly significant within the collection. Rather than treating technology as a decorative add-on, Xiaoya uses it as part of the garment language. Surface becomes evidence: a trace, an imprint, a pressure mark, or a visual disturbance. This approach allows the collection to move between the digital and the bodily, connecting contemporary fashion technologies with questions of touch, control and perception. In Plain Sight also draws on cinematic femininity, considering how women are positioned within images and how the act of looking can become a form of discipline. The collection does not simply reject visibility; it reclaims it. Through disruption, Xiaoya asks what happens when the body refuses to remain smooth, compliant or easily read. Her garments create moments of ambiguity, where femininity becomes constructed, intelligent and resistant. Presented as part of WSA BA Fashion Design’s Graduate Fashion Week 2026 selection, In Plain Sight demonstrates Xiaoya’s ability to combine conceptual clarity with technical experimentation. The collection is rigorous, visually precise and materially engaged, using fashion to examine the politics of the gaze while proposing a more complex and self-authored image of feminine identity.

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