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Philippa Gouldson

Philippa Gouldson

Cardiff, United Kingdom
UNIVERSITY/COLLEGE University of South Wales
Course Visibility vs. Palatability
SPECIALISMS Womenswear

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torunn.kjolberg@southwales.ac.uk

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Visibility vs. Palatability is Philippa Gouldson’s graduate womenswear collection exploring the politics of feminine presence through contemporary fashion design. Grounded in feminist theory and visual culture, the project investigates the tension between the desire to be seen and the pressure to remain socially acceptable, questioning why women are so often encouraged to soften or self-regulate in order to remain palatable. Beginning with research into the cultural ideal of the ‘Cool Girl’ and developed through the writings of Julia Kristeva, Erving Goffman, Pierre Bourdieu and Laura Mulvey, the collection translates critical theory into sculptural silhouettes, exaggerated proportions and tactile material contrasts. Monochromatic looks become impossible to ignore, transforming garments into declarations of visibility rather than decoration. Inspired by the candid observations of Martin Parr, the collection is photographed within supermarkets, train stations, garages and boxing gyms, placing bold femininity in direct confrontation with ordinary and traditionally male dominated environments. These visual tensions reinforce the project’s central message: that occupying space should never require permission.

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