“pli et pli: pleat & fold, pleat & crease, pleat & pleat.”

My project titled ‘pli et pli’, is an exploration into pleating, creasing, folding and the use of line, in the context of fabric and knitwear. I have drawn inspiration from traditional Scottish pleated and striped garments, exploring kilts and other pleated military garments. This research informed my interest in the cultural connotations of pleats, considering their use in both traditionally feminine and masculine garments throughout history. The large skirts, or kilts, worn by Scottish fishwives encapsulated this juxtaposition of femininity and practicality. These fishwives’ layered garments and voluminous skirts greatly influenced my work as I was particularly interested in both the silhouettes and patterns of their garments but also the nature of their work and how they lived their lives as working women. This is something I have translated into my work by combining volume, large feminine silhouettes, with contrasting tailored knitwear.